Tag Archives: Jose Andres

Meet Brick Farm Tavern’s Chef & GM; Delectable Peruvian Dining in DC

Hopewell’s Brick Farm Tavern is Set to Debut on November 19. Here are Its Key Players

Greg Vassos, Mike Lykens, Jon McConaughy, & Robin McConaughy, Brick Farm Tavern

Greg Vassos, Mike Lykens, Jon McConaughy, & Robin McConaughy, Brick Farm Tavern (courtesy Princeton Echo)

The folks behind Double Brook Farm and Brick Farm Market, Robin & Jon McConaughy, have put their much anticipated farm-to-table restaurant, Brick Farm Tavern, into the hands of two alumni of The Broadmoor, the five-star luxury resort in Colorado Springs. Here in the November issue of the Princeton Echo I interview Executive Chef Greg Vassos and General Manager Mike Lykens about how they intend to carry out the McConaughys’ vision.

Brick Farm Tavern

Brick Farm Tavern

btw: Reservations are currently being accepted on OpenTable or by calling the restaurant at (609) 333-9200.

At China Chilcano, Jose Andres Takes on Peruvian Cuisine with Verve

I have yet to encounter a restaurant of DC-based chef Jose Andres that doesn’t bowl me over. It seems no matter what unlikely cuisine this Spanish-born master turns his hand to, he manages to honor and expand on it in a most delicious way. In the past I’ve raved about America Eats Tavern, for example, where he pays homage to historic American dishes while making them modern and desirable (e.g., Manhattan clam chowder, mutton with oysters, and America’s first mac ‘n’ cheese, which features vermicelli).

Andres works the same magic at China Chilcano, where the electric liveliness of the setting matches that of the vibrant food:

China Chilcano

China Chilcano

China Chilcano

China Chilcano

Below are highlights from wide-ranging dinner my table of 4 enjoyed, after cocktails from a list that includes 5 takes on pisco. The menu encompasses both indigenous Peruvian dishes like papas a la Huancaina (potatoes with spicy aji amarillo sauce) and the beloved hybrid rice and noodle dishes developed by the Chinese and Japanese immigrants who flocked to Peru during the late 19th century. (So did Italians, but they’re not represented here.) All photos by Chris Le.

Every gorgeous dish has the Andres touch – none more so than these 3 siu mai from the dim sum section of the menu.

Pork & jicama siu mai topped with gold-flecked egg. China Chilcano

Pork & shrimp siu mai topped with gold-flecked egg. China Chilcano

Scallop & pork siu mai with tobiko. China Chilcano

Scallop & pork siu mai with tobiko. China Chilcano

 

Chicken with aji amarillo siu mai. China Chilcano

Chicken with aji amarillo siu mai. China Chilcano

(Don’t know why that last photo insists on being upside down.) Another gold-flecked dim sum winner is this one of lamb pot stickers, hidden under crispy cumin-scented lace:

Pegao Norteno (lamb pot sticker). China Chilcano

Pegao Norteno (lamb pot stickers). China Chilcano

From the selection of ceviches and tiraditos (Peruvian crosses between sushi and ceviche), here’s the big eye tuna with soy-cured egg yolk, Nikkei leche de tigre (citrus marinade), puffed quinoa, avocado, mountain yam, red onion, and furikake seasoning:

Ceviche Nikkei. China Chilcano

Ceviche Nikkei. China Chilcano

Peru and Asia meet up perfectly in this lomo saltado of hanger steak, tomato, soy sauce, shishitos, ginger, shoestring potatoes, and rice:

Lomo Saltado with Egg. China Chilcano

Lomo Saltado with Egg. China Chilcano

While a classic aji de gallina is purely, and wonderfully, Peruvian:

Aji de gallina. China Chilcano

Aji de gallina. China Chilcano

I can’t decide which of these two desserts I enjoyed more, although the funky look of the suspiro Limena (“woman of Lima’s sigh”) still has me smiling:

Coconut "Birds Nest" Soup with Pink Grapefruit Sorbet. China Chilcano

Coconut “Birds Nest” Soup with Pink Grapefruit Sorbet. China Chilcano

Suspiro Limena: Sweetened Condensed Milk Custard with Meringue & Passion Fruit. China Chilcano

Suspiro Limena: Sweetened Condensed Milk Custard with Meringue & Passion Fruit. China Chilcano

China Chilcano is located on 7th St. NW in the Penn Quarter, very close to Andres’ signature restaurant, Jaleo.

Review: Pastaio in Spring Lake; Big Brothers/Sisters Benefit; My Most Popular Recipe Ever – Ideal for Father’s Day

When she worked at Eataly in New York, Lisa Stanko-Mohen was tasked with making 3,000 pound of pasta a day. See if she learned well from her master, Mario Batali, in my review of Pastaio, her Spring Lake restaurant. In the June 2013 issue of New Jersey Monthly.

NJ Monthly cover June13

Help Mercer County Big Brothers Big Sisters Celebrate Their 40th Anniversary

Both NJ Salt Creek Grilles – the one in Rumson and the one in Princeton – continue to be exceptional supporters of the communities they’re in. One of the most enduring and meaningful alliances is between Salt Creek Grille, Princeton and a cause close to my heart: Big Brothers Big Sisters.

Salt Creek Grille Princeton

Salt Creek Grille Princeton is hosting their 5th annual Wine & Dine Festival & Fundraiser, benefiting Mercer County BBBS, on Thursday, June 20th from 6 to 9pm. Set up under big tents on the sprawling Salt Creek Grille lawn, Wine & Dine is an outdoor celebration of fine wine, craft beer, cuisine, and music. This year’s Wine & Dine event has special significance for Big Brothers Big Sisters of Mercer County, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary. $60 in advance, $75 at the door. For information or to place your reservation, call (609) 419-4200.

Giving the People What They Want: Apparently, That’s Orange Soda BBQ Sauce

Of all the subjects I’ve blogged about over the last year and a half, the one that continues to receive the most hits – day in and day out, literally from all over the world –  is for grilled chicken with orange soda barbecue sauce. I first published the recipe, supplied by chef Jeremy Stahl who teaches at Mercer County College, in connection with father’s day 2012.

Thanks, Jeremy!

Thanks, Jeremy!

As a continuing public service, here is the link.  I would add my wishes for a happy Father’s Day to all the dads out there, but clearly this recipe’s appeal goes way beyond American men on one particular day of the year! Who knew?

btw: Want to know the second most popular hit? Again, I couldn’t have predicted it in a million years. It’s a drink called switchel, a cocktail served in a Mason jar that I encountered at Jose Andres‘ America Eats! Tavern in DC. In its original, Colonial American incarnation switchel was a non-alcoholic refresher for farm workers. I wrote about it – complete with a recipe from America Eats! – here in my very first blog post. Come to think of it, it too would be great for Father’s Day!

Switchel: An 18th Century Sports Drink?

A Kerr mason jar

Image via Wikipedia

2013 UPDATE: JOSE ANDRES IS BRINGING BACK HIS AMERICA EATS TAVERN PERMANENTLY LATER THIS YEAR, AT THE RITZ-CARLTON IN TYSONS CORNER, VA

As you may have heard, Jose Andres recently took one of his hallmark D.C. restaurants, Café Atlantico, offline, transforming it into a six-month pop-up restaurant called America Eats Tavern. Created to run in conjunction with a concurrent exhibit at the National Archives called “What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam?”, its menu consists of traditional (and sometimes lost or forgotten) gems of American cooking over the centuries, each extensively researched and masterfully realized. Both the exhibit and the fare are far more enjoyable than their names imply, and both will disappear early in January 2012.

The menu gives brief histories of each dish, and these are often fascinating – like the one for Lobster Newberg, a dish introduced at Delmonico’s in 1876. It seems the secret to the sauce came from one Ben Wenberg, a shipper of fruit from Latin America. After a dispute between Wenberg and the restaurant’s management, Delmonico’s simply rearranged a few letters and renamed the dish “Newberg.”

Not just the eats, but drinks at America Eats are historical and thoroughly researched. I was particularly taken with switchel, a cocktail with origins going back to Colonial America. On the menu it’s described as “a field worker’s drink from New England, blending rum, cider vinegar, molasses, and ginger into a surprisingly refreshing beverage.” It’s served in a Mason-type jar.

Switchel is surprisingly refreshing, and when I returned home I decided to replicate it. My research uncovered that it was not originally an alcoholic beverage, but sort of an 18th and 19th century version of a sports drink. (There’s even an allusion to a version of it, called haymakers punch, in Laura Ingalls Wilder’s Little House on the Prairie series.) Some people claim that the vinegar-molasses-ginger-water tonic is better for your body than modern-day sports drinks and, in hot weather, more effective than plain water for keeping you hydrated.

It turned out to be surprisingly easy to produce a delicious version of switchel at home – with one difference. At the restaurant the cocktail is a beautiful golden color. My version, while similar tasting, turned out the color of Coke. Stymied, I emailed Owen Thomson, the lead bartender at America Eats. Here is what he replied:

“Glad you enjoyed the drink; this is one of my favorites as well. I found a lot of old recipes for switchel in books, and one that I found to be my favorite actually blended a little honey in with the molasses – so that may have something to do with the color. We also use fresh juiced gingerroot as opposed to just macerating cut gingerroot. Below is our recipe which we then mix with 5-year El Dorado rum.”

So, take your pick: dark brown switchel or golden yellow switchel. Either way, I reckon it will surprise, delight, and refresh.

PAT’S HOMEMADE SWITCHEL

Stir together ½ cup cider vinegar, ¼ cup molasses, scant ½ teaspoon ground ginger, 4 cups cold water (Serves 6).

AMERICA EATS TAVERN’S SWITCHEL

Stir together ¼ cup molasses, ¼ cup honey, 2 teaspoons ginger juice, ½ cup cider vinegar, 3 cups water (Serves 4).

SWITCHEL COCKTAILS: Divide switchel among highball glasses or Mason jars. Stir 1½ to 2 ounces of rum into each glass.

America Eats’ menu makes for compelling reading. Dining there is even better. Check out What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam?, through January 3, 2012 at the National Archives (About 1 block from America Eats) Have you dined at America Eats? Tell me what you think.