Catching Up: Fresh Local Pasta; Fresh Local Rice; Chefs with Non-Culinary Sidelines; New BBQ in Lambertville; Foodie Gift Idea for New Parents; More

t has been 2 months since I last posted here. One reason for this lapse is personal: lots of wonderful major life events, including welcoming my first grandchild and gaining a second wonderful son-in-law. The other is global: trying to regain my balance since the election, which I consider an unmitigated disaster. (This is a blog about food and dining, not politics. But I won’t be offended if you want to stop following it because of the preceding statement. In fact, if you voted for the incoming administration, I wish you would unfollow me.)

Here are the stories – some among my all-time favorites to write – that appeared in the interim:

edible-jersey-holiday-2016
1. My profile of the Zeck brothers and their fresh, inventive, all-natural LoRe pastas made with local ingredients – including grains. This story made the cover of the current (i.e. holiday 2016) issue of Edible Jersey

2. My interview with Jim Lyons about the rice varieties he grows on his Pennington farm, Blue Moon Acres, which was my November feature story in the Princeton Echo

3. I followed that up in the December Echo by having 3 Princeton-area chefs tell, in their own words, about the passions they enjoy outside the kitchen: Crawford Koeniger (auto engine rebuilding), Dennis Foy (well-respected fine artist), and  Max Hansen (hand-turned wooden spoons and spatulas; photo below).

max-hansen-princeton-echo

Max Hansen, courtesy the Princeton Echo

Food for Thought logoAmong the tidbits in my “Food For Thought” column over the last months:

  • More Than Q, the popular outlet for Texas-style barbecue, closed up shop at the Stockton Market and opened up in Lambertville
  • NJ resident and blogger Leena Saini has produced a beautiful and eminently useful book for introducing babies to a world of flavors. Read all about Around the World in 80 Purees here. (Scroll down)
  • New ventures for Shibumi Mushrooms, and musical chefs’ chairs: Chris Albrecht takes over the kitchen at the Ryland Inn, while Craig Polignano leaves that post to become the opening chef at the forthcoming Mistral II in King of Prussia, PA. Details on both here.

From Dishwasher to Exec Chef; Upcoming Events: 1 on Nature & Creativity & the other, Halloween Fun; News re Brick Farm Tavern & First Field Ketchup

3 Princeton Area Chefs Tell Their Stories of Working Their Way from the Bottom Rung to the Top of the Restaurant Kitchen Ladder

us-1-harvest-dining-2016-crop

For the 2016 Harvest Dining issue of US 1, I approached executive chefs at 3 of the Princeton area’s most popular and revered food establishments for the stories of how they navigated their way from the lowest to the top position. That all 3 are Hispanic immigrants with no English at the start speaks volumes. (Donald T***p please take note.) Read about the journeys of Juan Mercado of One53, Jose Lopez of Nassau Street Seafood, and Edgar Urias of Blue Point Grill here.

 

Nature-as-Muse Workshops at Princeton’s Mountain Lakes Preserve Feature Successful Perfumer, Food Artisan, Graphic Designer, and Poet

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Gab Carbone of the Bent Spoon, Courtesy Princeton Echo

The bad news is that this series of October workshops mounted by Friends of Princeton Open Space is sold out. The good news is there probably will be more to come. So if you’re interested in upping your creativity quotient, check out this unique series of open-air walks and a related workshop. Each is led by a different successful professional on four consecutive Sundays: a perfumer from Firmenich (scent), an independent graphic designer (color), a poet (words), and the inimitable Gab Carbone of the Bent Spoon ice cream shop (flavor).

I share all the fascinating details here, in the October issue of the Princeton Echo. Bonus: Get to know Princeton mover-and-shaker Fran McManus, the genius behind the workshops.

Halloween Fun for Grown-ups and New Milestones for Brick Farm Tavern and First Field (the NJ Ketchup Folks)

Food for Thought logoCheck out my “Food for Thought” column in October’s Princeton Echo for details on:

  • Tre Piani & Planet Apothecary teaming up for their Witches & Warlocks Ball
  •  Menu details for the upcoming (and already sold out) dinner at the Beard House by Brick Farm Tavern Chef Greg Vassos on October 22
  • The newest product from the First Field Jersey Ketchup folks which surprised even owners Theresa Viggiano & Patrick Leger in its popularity. (Hint: it’s not ketchup)

Birthing a NJ Vineyard; Jim Nawn on His Newest Princeton Resto; Finds Galore – Fancy Food Show, Hidden Montgomery Gem, and 2 Gorgeous Event Venues

Have you fantasized about starting your own vineyard & winery? Here’s one couple’s story

edible-jersey-cover-fall-16

In some ways, Beverly Tepper and Mark Pausch of Rocky Hill are typical of couples who take the plunge. But they do have a unique advantage: both are accomplished scientists in fields that apply to winemaking, specifically taste sensation (her) and yeast fermentation (him). My story about their journey and nascent Monmouth County vineyard, here in the Fall 2016 issue of Edible Jersey.

First came Agricola & Great Road Farm. Then the buyout of Main Street Cafe, Bistro, & Commissary. Just debuted is Dinky Bar & Kitchen in Princeton’s new Arts & Transit neighborhood. Next…

 

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Dinky Bar Interior, Courtesy Princeton Echo

There is a next, as restaurateur Jim Nawn reveals in my far-ranging conversation with him about his new and future projects here in the September issue of the Princeton Echo.

Food News: Winning Finds from the Fancy Food Show, Excellent From-Scratch Middle Eastern Fare in a Hidden Location, High-end Caterer at Lakeside and Farmside Locations

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Details on all these in my “Food for Thought” column in the same September Echo issue, here.

 

Princeton’s One-and-Only Ivy Inn; Gourmet Hot Dogs in Lawrenceville; Excellent Lunch in Lambertville

Ivy Inn Princeton Echo

Ivy Inn, courtesy the Princeton Echo

Out-of-towners are always surprised to learn there’s something akin to a dive bar in toney Princeton. Even more remarkable, the place draws regulars from every economic, educational, and social strata in the area. On Saturday, August 6th, the Ivy Inn celebrated its 50th anniversary. Leading up to that I polled townies, visitors, and the Ivy’s owner, Richey Ryan, about its unique and lasting appeal. Here, in the August issue of The Princeton Echo.

Princeton University Eating Club Spawns Gourmet Hot Dog Eatery (Plus: NJ’s Own Hard Apple Cider Debuts and Jammin’ Crepes Readies Its First Truck)

Food for Thought logo

Tower Dogs, a casual eatery that opened in Lawrenceville in June, is a collaboration between the Tower Club’s longtime chef and a club board member. Chef Jim Forkel spent years perfecting his now-proprietary hot dog recipe, which is the star of a full-blown menu of gourmet dogs. Details here, in my “Food for Thought” column in that same August issue of The Princeton Echo. (Along with info on Ironbound Cider, named for the Newark neighborhood not far from where its NJ-grown apples are turned into hard cider, and on The Flying Crepeze, the truck that will start dispensing Jammin’ Crepes’ popular wares in the coming weeks.)

Annie’s Gourmet-to-Go: A Pleasant Surprise in Lambertville

I must thank food writer Susan S. Yeske for introducing me to Annie’s, where we shared a terrific lunch recently. Back in 2013 owner and chef Debra Caucci took over the spot on North Union Street that had been Ennis’ Market and named it after her mother. She serves fresh, from-scratch, generously portioned breakfast and lunch fare, both for eating-in and taking-out.

Annies porchetta sandwich

Porchetta Sandwich, Annie’s Gourmet-to-Go, Lambertville. Photo courtesy www.anniesnj.com

I was won over by her Sicilian porchetta sandwich of pan-roasted, properly herbed (and garlicked) pork, broccoli rabe, and sharp provolone on a warm, crisped ciabatta roll. For a side dish I chose m macaroni salad – made with small pasta shells, if I recall correctly – that took me back to my grandmother’s own. Not realizing the sandwich came with its own side, Susan and I had also ordered a wedge salad to share, and that, too, was fresh, generous, and perfected executed. (The menu board shown above isn’t quite up to date; among other things, a number of salads have been added.)

Annie’s is open everyday but Tuesday, with different hours on weekdays and weekends.

Kitchen Twins in Edible Jersey; Princeton Carillon in NJ Monthly; Masala Grill Farewell in Princeton Echo

You watched them on “Chopped Junior” and “Rachael Ray”…

Kitchen Twins

Photo by Andrew Wilkinson, Courtesy of Edible Jersey

…and you may have purchased their most successful product: Kitchen Twins shake-and-bake kale chips, available at 300+ markets nationwide. Now get to know Lawrenceville’s 12-year-old dynamic duo, Emily & Lyla Allen (above), who I profile here in the High Summer issue of Edible Jersey.

I admit it: before I watched and heard Princeton University’s carilloneur, Lisa Lonie play, I didn’t even know the difference between church bells and carillons

Lisa Lonie NJ Monthly

Photo by Robert Yaskovic, Courtesy of New Jersey Monthly

Turns out that not only do carillons make beautiful music, but everything about them is fascinating. Including Princeton’s 67 cast-bronze bells (the fifth largest carillon in the world) and Lonie herself –  Princeton’s first female carilloneur and a repository of carillon knowledge. (Two examples: Philip Glass has composed for the carillon, and not all that long ago, Lonie would have been termed a carilloneuse.) With Princeton’s summer carillon festival underway through August, now’s the time to read my profile here, in the July issue of New Jersey Monthly.

After 20 years, Masala Grill says goodbye – and thanks – with a blowout open house

Owner Suchitra Patel didn’t want to leave the modest Chambers Street space she had leased in Princeton for two decades, but when the time came she knew exactly how to thank her many loyal fans. Two-hundred people showed up on the final day. Here’s my report – and where to find her food now – in the July installment of Food for Thought in the Princeton Echo.

Update on EDDY Awards: My Story Won 2 Awards! Plus: LoRe Pasta, Barrio Costero, Upcoming Writers Panel

“First Ladies of Cape May” Takes Readers’ Choice AND Critics’ Choice Awards for 2016!

First Ladies of Cape May

Dot Burton & Lucille Thompson. Photo by Aleksey Moryakov

Thank you to everyone who voted for my story, which appeared in the Spring 2015 issue of Edible Jersey and which was one of 5 nominees in the Best Chef Feature for this annual award sponsored by Edible Communities. Many of you voted every day – I am beyond touched. And thank you to the 50 food world superstars who served as judges.There were over 600 submissions in all categories, and Edible Jersey’s publisher, Nancy Painter, tells me that the Chefs category was among the most highly submitted. I’m so flattered.

Here’s the official announcement from http://www.ediblejersey.com:

Congratulations to Edible Jersey writer Pat Tanner and photographer Aleksey Moryakov on winning both critics’ choice and readers’ choice awards in the 2016 EDDY competition for Best Feature Chef article. (And thanks to all of you who voted!) Click here to read the winning story about “The First Ladies of Cape May,” two sisters working at the Chalfonte Hotel in Cape May for generations.

My only regret is that the elder of these wonderful women, Dot Burton, passed away shortly before my story was published. But Dot’s sister, Lucille Thompson, was back when the hotel reopened the next season, along with Dot’s daughter, Tina. So the family legacy continues.

NJ’s Newest Fresh Pasta Company: How Local Can You Go?

LoRe Pasta brothers

Richard & Mario Zeck, courtesy the Princeton Echo

For brothers Mario & Richard Zeck of LoRe Pasta in South Brunswick, the answer includes fresh-milled whole grains from two local granaries, eggs from a newly hatched poultry farm in Hillsborough, and cheeses – including ricotta impastata – from Flemington’s Fulper Farms. The result isn’t cheap, but it is remarkable. The details, here, in my July feature in the Princeton Echo.

First Look: Barrio Costero, Asbury Park

In a previous post I wrote about the many Princeton restaurant alumni who have found their way to Barrio Costero, a hip new restaurant with a modern take on Coastal Mexican cuisine and inventive cocktails to match. Here’s a closer look at my first tastes there. You’ll have to bear with me: the house cocktails by Jamie Dodge were so good that my photographic skills rapidly deteriorated.

Chico 2

See what I mean about the cocktails? Above is the Chico: gin, zucca amaro, creme de mure (blackberries), sugar, lemon, tiki bitters, and pink peppercorn salt. Gorgeous, balanced, and irresistible.

Aztec Rabbit Logo

Here’s the restaurant’s logo – an Aztec rabbit – atop a Hotel Nacional: dark rum, pineapple, lime, apricot liqueur, and bitters. I resisted trying this concoction at first, thinking it would be sticky-sweet. Silly me.

Scallop and Hummus

Small plates with big flavors complement the cocktails, wines, and beers beautifully. Above is beet hummus (much tastier than you’re supposing) on corn chips and nicely seared scallop Yucatan (with pineapple, jalapeno, and white beans).

Chicken Adobo Roulade w Quinoa

Above is chicken adobo roulade with quinoa, one of the surprise hits of the evening. Vying for top tastes were pork belly with pineapple, pickled onion, and orange rub and lamb tacos with cactus. Too hard to pick a winner!

Congratulations to everyone at Barrio Costero, especially chef David Viana and Jamie Dodge.

Join Me on July 16 for 3rd Annual Food Writers Panel

Rachel Weston Portriat

Rachel Weston Portrait

I am delighted to be participating once again in this lively, popular event at the West Windsor Farmers Market. Fellow panels are: Fran McManus, marketing manager of the Whole Earth Center, cookbook author, and principal of Understanding Flavor; Nancy Painter, publisher of Edible Jersey, and Rachel Weston, food writer and cookbook author (“New Jersey Fresh”).

The fun starts at 11 a.m. Get the details here.

 

 

 

 

Princeton Restaurant Veterans Spread Their Wings; Lillipies Opening @ Princeton Shopping Center; Update on EDDY Awards Voting

New Restaurants from Familiar Names & Faces in Union, Asbury Park, & King of Prussia Mall

Jamie Dodge, Beverage Manager at Barrio Costero puts a finishing touch on his Hotel Nacional cocktail

Jamie Dodge, Beverage Manager at Barrio Costero, puts a finishing touch on his Hotel Nacional cocktail

Here in my June “Food for Thought” column in the Princeton Echo I have the scoop on the latest projects & whereabouts of folks like Jamie Dodge (formerly of Elements & Mistral), Derek Brousseau (One53 & Mistral), David Viana (Kitchen @ Grove Station & Battello), Carlo & Raoul Momo (Terra Momo Restaurant Group), and Scott Anderson & Steve Distler (Elements & Mistral).

Jen Carson Shares Plans for the June Opening of Lillipies, Her Bakery-Cafe on North Harrison Street

Jen Carson, Lillipies, courtesy The Princeton Echo

Jen Carson, Lillipies, courtesy The Princeton Echo

Besides the sweet and savory baked goods that have earned her a large following, Carson’s first brick-and-mortar spot will offer scratch-made soups, sandwiches, coffee, ice cream, and live entertainment. Details here, in my June feature story in the Echo.

There’s still time to vote for my EDDY-nominated story, “The First Ladies of Cape May!”

Dot Thompson & Lucille Burton. Photo by Aleksey Moryakov

Dot Thompson & Lucille Burton. Photo by Aleksey Moryakov

As I mentioned in my previous post, I am honored that my story from Edible Jersey is 1 of 5 nominees in the Chef Feature category of the EDDYs: the national writing awards of the 90 Edible Communities magazines. You can cast one vote a day every day from now through Wednesday, June 8th by clicking here. (As of this writing, my story had accumulated 66% of the votes!!!)

I’m on a Roll! 3 National Publications in the Last 3 Weeks

Latest honor: A story I wrote for Edible Jersey is nominated for an EDDY – the annual awards of 90 Edible Communities magazines!

A profile from last spring of the First Ladies of the Chalfonte in Cape May is one of 5 nominees in the Best Chef Profile category. I would be so honored if you would vote for it! You can vote once a day every day through June 8th. Read the stories and vote by clicking HERE.

Dot Thompson & Lucille Burton. Photo by Aleksey Moryakov

Dot Thompson & Lucille Burton. Photo by Aleksey Moryakov

I am so grateful to Nancy Painter and the folks at EJ for submitting the story, and to the EDDY Award judges who nominated it. There are nearly 90 Edible publications across the U.S. and Canada. Over 50 of them entered more than 600 pieces of editorial work into 21 categories this year, and, Painter tells me, the chefs category had one of the largest # of entries! Industry judges narrowed the field down to the 5 final nominees.

Another Edible Jersey story has been picked up by another North American publication & entity

Suzanne Cunningham & Kindergartners, Princeton Waldorf School

Suzanne Cunningham & kindergarteners, Princeton Waldorf School

My story-memoir about the gardening curriculum past and present at the Waldorf School of Princeton that appeared earlier this year is included here in “Waldorf Today,” a weekly continental newsletter. (Scroll down for it.) AWSNA – the Association of Waldorf Schools of North America – also picked it up and shared on social media.

Then there is my contribution to Travel + Leisure…

Elements' Bison Tartare

Elements’ Bison Tartare

…about the best farm-to-table restaurants in NJ. In case you missed it, I named Elements in Princeton tops among several. You can check it out here.

Travel+Leisure’s Pick for Best Farm-to-Table in NJ?

Months and months ago an editor from Travel+Leisure emailed me asking for my opinion of the best farm-to-table restaurant (yeah, I know) in NJ. I sent her back my opinion, thinking she would use it as deep background/research for one of several from several food writers across the state. Instead, my recommendation is the single NJ entry in their “50 best” in the US. and I am quoted directly. http://www.travelandleisure.com/food-drink/restaurants/best-eco-friendly-restaurants-united-states

New Supper Club Series; Fish Buying Conundrum; Restaurant News

SUPPER CLUB @ REFURBISHED CEDAR GARDENS TO HOLD BEARD HOUSE-STYLE DINNERS

The family behind Buy-Rite Wines & Liquor recently purchased and renovated the venerable Cedar Gardens in Hamilton, and they are mounting ongoing guest-chef dinners in one of the smaller, more intimate rooms. The first is happening this Thursday, May 12th, with guest chefs from Trenton Social, which suffered a devastating fire very recently. Check out the menu below, especially the first course which is an homage to pork roll/Taylor ham. Since time is of the essence – reservations are requested by noon on Monday, May 9th – I’m posting the press release just as I received it.

Cedar Gardens

Cedar Gardens

Trenton Social Brings ‘Road Show’ to Buy-Rite’s Supper Club at Cedar Gardens  

HAMILTON – Trenton Social’s owner T.C. Nelson, his chef Byron DeLeon and their staff will headline a special wine dinner starting at 6:30 p.m. Thursday evening, May 12, at Buy-Rite’s new Supper Club at Cedar Gardens, here.
Last Sunday morning, a car crashed into Trenton Social, causing extensive damage and temporarily shuttering the popular restaurant.  That hasn’t stopped Nelson and DeLeon’s culinary creativity, however.
With the acclaimed Loire Valley winemaker Clement Berthier coming to the area for one night, Nelson and the Buy-Rite team behind the Supper Club knocked heads and came up with a plan to both show support for the Trenton Social community and welcome, in proper style, one of the great vintners in France.
Nelson and DeLeon will present a four-course menu to pair with five of Berthier’s wines. The price, including all food, wines, taxes and tip, is $80 per person. The dinner is open to the public; seating is limited and reservations are required.

The Loire Meets the Delaware; Berthier Wines, Trenton Social Cuisine

1st course: Pork Roll Tribute: Pork Roll Spring Roll; Pork Roll ‘Nita
2015 Clement et Florian Berthier Sancerre Rose

2nd course: Crab Mousse with Caviar and English Cucumber
2014 Clement et Florian Berthier Coteaux du Giennois Blanc
2014 Clement et Florian Berthier Pouilly Fume

3rd course: Blackened Salmon with Mango-Roasted Red Pepper-Cucumber Salsa; Truffled-Sea Salt Fries and Seasonal Vegetables
2014 Clement et Florian Berthier Coteaux du Giennois Rouge
2014 Clement et Florian Berthier Coteaux du Giennois L’Inedit

4th course: Key Lime Tart

The Supper Club is located within the Buy-Rite/Cedar Gardens facility at 661 Route 33 in Hamilton.,Reservations must be made by noon Monday, May 9. To reserve, please call 609-931-9463 and ask for Chris, or visit www.squareup.com/store/cedargardensupperclub and link to Supper Club events.

BUYING FISH & SEAFOOD: SLIPPERY AS AN EEL

Saidur Rehman, McCaffrey's Lead Seafood Dept. Manager

Saidur Rehman, McCaffrey’s Lead Seafood Dept. Manager

I confess my personal struggles and report on others’ recommendations here, in the May issue of The Princeton Echo.

MORE RENOVATIONS AT THE ALCHEMIST & BARRISTER; HOAGIE HAVEN BOTTLES A CULT SAUCE; McCAFFREY’S MARKETS GROWS TO 6 STORES

Food for Thought logoThere are now 76 beer taps at the A&B in Princeton, plus improved open-air dining in its beloved rear pub. Hoagie Haven has its own cult followers (among them, Jon Stewart), and so does one of its proprietary sauces, now available bottled, online and in stores. Family-owned McCaffrey’s is expanding from 4 to 6 stores in central NJ & nearby PA. Get the details here, in my “Food for Thought” column in May’s Princeton Echo.