New Eateries: Wildflour & Mallery’s; Marc Vetri on Stuttering; Notable Events

Lots to report. Dine gluten-free (plus vegetarian) in Lawrenceville and on Simply Grazin’ organic meats in Hillsborough. My radio encounter with Vetri and his lifelong stutter. Participate, please: March against Monsanto, cheffy benefit for one of my favorite NJ nonprofits, first ever Montclair food & wine fest.

Wildflour Bakery/Cafe

The space that had been the Lawrenceville Inn has morphed into an artisan bakery and daytime cafe featuring made-to-order savory and sweet crepes, breads and pastries – all gluten-free. The cafe menu  (you’ll need to click to enlarge) also offers housemade soups, salads, and smoothies (also gluten-free and vegetarian).

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The gal behind Wildflour is Marilyn Besner, shown here holding one of her exceptional coffee cakes.  Princeton-area foodies known her from Moonlight Bakers, her previous strudel-making venture. Besner used her training at The Natural Gourmet Institute and French Culinary Institute to develop her own blends of flours, using everything from amaranth to quinoa, which result in exceptionally light textures, even for cream puffs and pastry for fruit tarts.

On my first visit to Wildflour I couldn’t resist ordering two crepes. I started with a buckwheat crepe filled with sautéed spring greens (kale was one) and caramelized onions with goat cheese crumbled on top and red pepper muhammara on the side ($7.95). Big, hearty, and flavorful. If buckwheat is not to your taste, the alternative is a rice-lentil batter. For my dessert crepe I chose the “plain” batter, made from Marilyn’s own blend of rice, millet, and other flours, the result of which is a light, tasty, tender wrapper. Housemade lemon curd and ricotta was my chosen filler and even though 2 full-size crepes are really too much for one sitting, I gobbled it down. Below is my companion’s equally spectacular choice: Nutella with bent spoon ice cream on the side.

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Wildflour Bakery/Cafe is open for breakfast, lunch, and weekend brunch. Birthday cakes and full-size pies and tarts are available by special order.

Mallery’s Eatery

Fans of Mark & Lynne Faille’s organically raised meats from their Simply Grazin’ Farm and Mallery’s Grazin’ Meats butcher shop – both in Skillman – have added a butcher shop/cafe in Hillsborough called Mallery’s Eatery. Executive chef is none other than Eric Martin, the opening and long-time chef at Rat’s Restaurant at Grounds for Sculpture.

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The lunch and take-out menu includes soups like his organic chicken orzo ($7); salads such as one of beets, granny smith apples, goat cheese, and arugula ($8); cold and hot sandwiches; panini; and “plates” of spaghetti and meatballs ($10) and meatloaf ($13). On a recent visit I was particularly impressed with this organic turkey chili (beef is also available) served with fresh corn tortillas and all the trimmings ($9.99):

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Mallery’s Eatery is open for breakfast and lunch, tucked away deep in the recesses of the Kingsbridge Shopping Center on South Branch Road.

Marc Vetri, Stuttering, and Me

Did you catch this touching HuffPost piece by Marc Vetri about life as a stutterer? It resonated with me partially because back in 2005, after being wowed by a fabulous meal at his namesake Philly restaurant, I emailed him asking if he would be a phone-in guest on my live, Saturday morning radio talk show. It was only after he accepted that I learned he was a stutterer. I was impressed once again with the man – he wasn’t going to let that stop him. The interview went well and got a good response. I have to admit it was stressful on my end – it was hard not to jump in when he was struggling to get a word out – but it was a lesson in restraint well worth learning.

Chef’s Night @ Palace at Somerset Park

New Brunswick-based nonprofit Elijah’s Promise (motto: “Food Changes Lives”) does so many important things so well it takes my breath away: soup kitchen, pay-what-you-can eatery, CSA, community garden, more social services than I can name. But one that’s particularly close to my heart is Promise Culinary School, an intensive, state-accredited program that prepares low-income adults to work in the dining industry.

Chefs Night PhotoChef’s Night, the school’s biggest fundraiser, with 35-plus restaurants participating, will take place on Monday, June 3rd from 6 to 9 pm at the rather grand Palace at Somerset Park. For menu, details, and tickets, click here.

I’m not often political in this space but…

March Against Monsanto logo

I am so distressed by the so-called Monsanto Protection Act that I’m breaking my unspoken rule. A worldwide March Against Monsanto has been called for Saturday, May 25th. Check out the list of participating continents, countries, states, and cities here. The official March against Monsanto Facebook page has so amassed more than 81,000 likes.

In NJ, 2 Marches are planned by NOFA-NJ and other organizations. Marches lead off at 2 pm, from downtown New Brunswick and Atlantic City.Here’s their rationale:

- Research studies have shown that Monsanto’s genetically-modified foods can lead to serious health conditions such as the development of cancer tumors, infertility and birth defects.

- In the United States, the FDA, the agency tasked with ensuring food safety for the population, is steered by ex-Monsanto executives, and we feel that’s a questionable conflict of interests and explains the lack of government-lead research on the long-term effects of GMO products.

- Recently, the U.S. Congress and president collectively passed the nicknamed “Monsanto Protection Act” that, among other things, bans courts from halting the sale of Monsanto’s genetically-modified seeds.

- For too long, Monsanto has been the benefactor of corporate subsidies and political favoritism. Organic and small farmers suffer losses while Monsanto continues to forge its monopoly over the world’s food supply, including exclusive patenting rights over seeds and genetic makeup.

Montclair Food & Wine Festival: A 2-day Feast for a Good Cause
Participating Chef Ariane Duarte of CulinAriane

Participating Chef Ariane Duarte of CulinAriane

This is the inaugural event showcasing leading chefs from Montclair’s long list of terrific restaurants (and a couple of high-profile outliers from neighboring towns). It takes place on Saturday, June 1st and Sunday, June 2nd. A portion of the proceeds will go to the St. Joseph’s Children’s Hospital Center for Feeding and Swallowing and to Partners for Health Foundation. For the complete line-up, details on the Grand Tasting and Gala Dinner, and tickets, click here.

Brick Farm Market’s Pulled Pork; Beard’s Top Mid-Atlantic Chef; DC Dining; More

Brick Farm Market & Chef Chase G. Make Their Debut

And with pulled pork no less! Read about Mr. Gerstenbacher’s return to the Princeton-area food scene and the opening of Brick Farm Market in downtown Hopewell (from the folks behind Double Brook Farm).Plus get Chase’s recipes for Roasted Beet Salad and Pulled Pork, all in my In the Kitchen column in the May 10 issue of the Princeton Packet.

Chef Chase Gerstenbacher Courtesy of the Princeton Packet

Chef Chase Gerstenbacher Courtesy of the Princeton Packet

Edible Jersey’s Summer 2013 Issue

Edible Jersey Summer 2013

It’s just out, it’s free, and it includes fantastic stories. Including one of my favorite interview subjects of all time:  the inimitable Bill Meyer (“The Professional”), who is in his fifth decade as a server in NJ restaurants. Currently a captain at Restaurant Nicholas, Meyer reminisces about past regulars like Frank Sinatra and Phil Rizzuto and the time a goodfella held a knife to his throat when lunch wasn’t coming fast enough. Click here for where to pick up a copy.

Beard Awards: Since a NJ Chef Wasn’t in the Running…

I am pleased that Johnny Monis, my favorite DC chef, took the award as best chef in the Mid-Atlantic region at the 2013 James Beard Awards. He won for Komi, his modern Greek/Mediterranean restaurant that I first wrote about (read: waxed poetic about) in 2007. My visit last year to his latest effort, Little Serow, for his interpretation of Thai food only sealed the deal, as I wrote in a previous blog.

King Salmon at Little Serow

King Salmon at Little Serow

While We’re on the Subject of DC Dining…

My latest foray there yielded up 2 winners: Bandolero in Georgetown and Pure Pasty Co., a short car ride away in Vienna VA.

Bandolero‘s modern interpretations of Mexican fare are the work of Jersey boy Mike Isabella, the Top Chef contestant who built his reputation at Graffiato, his Italian spot. My skepticism about whether he could pull off Mexican was quickly dispatched by these tuna taquitos with ginger, sesame, and sweet potato in shells made of malanga:

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and these sopes with lamb picadillo, pickled jalapeno, and crema:

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Not to mention the libations in the background, nor the unforgettable guacamole with masa chips and chicharrones and the lobster quesadilla. The restaurant is apparently embroiled in legal disputes – although not involving Isabella. Whatever.  The food is so good that even murky legal shenanigans and the restaurant’s dark, macho decor and vibe are not enough to keep me away.

Mike Isabella

Mike Isabella

btw: Isabella is planning to shortly open a Jersey-style sandwich shop/eatery in Edison, called G Grab and Go, which will feature his own pork roll.

Be honest now: Have you ever eaten a Cornish pasty in this country that didn’t have too-thick, dry, leaden pastry and/or flavorless filling? I hadn’t – although I hear Rocky’s in Wharton and Montclair’s The Pie Store are worth checking out.

Traditional Pasties at Pure Pasty, Vienna VA

Traditional Pasties at Pure Pasty, Vienna VA

Meantime, I’ve fallen for those at Pure Pasty, a small, sweet shop in the DC suburb of Vienna, run by English expat Michael Burgess. His are authentic, yet somehow the pastry is light, flaky, and flavorful and you can taste every lip-smacking ingredient in the pitch-perfect fillings.

You don’t have to take my word for how good these pasties are. Accompanying me was an actual Brit, who raved even more than I did about not only the pasties but also the authentic sausage roll. Partly what accounts for their deliciosity are high quality ingredients – often organically grown and locally sourced – and an American chef who worked at Jose Andres’ erstwhile Cafe Atlantico. Here’s the cutaway view of the above (note the elderflower soda in the background):

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Here’s the standard menu, which is augmented by daily specials. The soup the day I visited was Scotch broth:

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The shop offers 2-day mail order delivery of frozen pies, and also carries shelves of groceries only a Brit could love, like these tins of mushy peas:

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Anyone Else Remember The A Kitchen Chinese Restaurant in South Brunswick?

If, like me, you lived in Central NJ in the 1970s you dined at – and worshiped – the Chinese restaurant, A Kitchen which, by the time I discovered it, had relocated from a gas station on Route 1 to a modest space on Route 27. Until now, I never knew that the NY Times had anything to do with its popularity. And, I regret to say, I completely forgot about the existence of the man who brought it to light, Raymond Sokolov, who had the misfortune to follow Craig Claiborne as restaurant critic. Here’s the excerpt from Sokolov’s new book, Steal the Menu, that talks about A Kitchen.  

The Man Behind Agricola; Big Wins for 2 NJ Cookbooks & Kids’ Cooking Magazine

Meet Jim Nawn, who traded in his holdings in 37 Panera Bread cafes in NJ to establish Agricola, the state’s hottest new restaurant – and hired a French Laundry alum for the kitchen and an artist who worked on Cristo’s “The Gates” to manage his farm, which supplies the farm-to-table restaurant. All in my May 1st cover story for US 1.US 1 Agricola

Maricel Presilla & the Canal House Gals Win Big at Beard Book Awards

Once again, congratulations are in order, big time. beard award image

Presilla’s Gran Cocina Latina: The Food of Latin America took top honors – Cookbook of the Year – at the 2013 James Beard Book Awards, held on Friday, May 3rd. This comes on top of the also prestigious IACP award for best general cookbook.

The latest in Melissa Hamilton & Christopher Hersheimer’s Canal House series, Canal House Cooks Every Day won in the General Cooking category.

The 2013 restaurant and chef award winners will be announced on Monday night, May 6th. Last year Maricel Presilla won in the Mid-Atlantic category. Sadly, no NJ chefs are in the running this year.

In the journalism category, the publication of the ChopChop Magazineyear is ChopChop, a cooking magazine for kids. The only tie it has to the Garden State (as far as I know) is that I gave 2 subscriptions as Christmas gifts last year. I highly recommend it!

For the complete list of 2013 Beard Book, Journalism & Broadcast Award winners, click here.

Tavro 13 Review; Rosie S. Dishes NJ; Oaxaca @ City Grit; Eating Bugs

Tavro Thirteen: South Jersey’s Hottest New Restaurant

The Colonial-era Old Swedes Inn in sleepy Swedesboro (that would be Exit 2 of the NJ Turnpike) has been deliciously brought into the 21st century under Philly star chef Terence Feury (Striped Bass, Fork). NJ Monthly cover may13 Here’s my review, from the May issue of New Jersey Monthly.

Sounds Like a Fun Time with My Pal Rosie Saferstein

Rosie SaferstesinLearn how to cook dishes from Rosie’s favorite restaurants on Thursday, May 9, when Rosie Saferstein of Table Hopping with Rosie and Suzanne Lowery of Soup to Nuts – both bloggers at njmonthly.com – will be at Kings Cooking Studio in Short Hills for a “Rosie Dishes-Suzanne Cooks” cooking class. Chef Lowery will demonstrate the following recipes, Rosie’s personal faves:

Shrimp-corn chowder with apple-smoked bacon from Boulevard 572, Kenilworth: chef Scott Snyder

Cauliflower steak with fregola; stuffed, roasted tomato; wild arugula; golden raisin and pine nut sauce from Satis, Jersey City: consulting chef is Michael Fiorianti. Chef de cuisine is Galice Ryan (btw: This dish happens to be on my own top list as well. Here’s my NJ Monthly review.)

Duck breast with red cabbage, caramelized turnip, and red-wine fig emulsion from Blu, Montclair: chef Zod Arifai.

French apple galette from executive chef Mitchell Altholz of Highlawn Pavilion in West Orange

Rosie will also dish about the NJ restaurant scene. Bring your questions and bring your appetite for a fun-filled evening. 6:30 to 9:30 PM; $65. Click here to register, or call 973-258-4009.

Ode to Oaxaca Dinner at City Grit

When I trekked down to NoLIta for a Hurricane Sandy benefit dinner recently, my main motivation was to connect with my friend Ruth Alegria, who was up from Mexico City taking time away from the food tours and cooking classes she conducts through her business, Mexico Soul and Essence.  My second motivation was to help Fany Gerson, a young New Yorker whose La Newyorkina all-natural ice pops with Mexican flavors – paletas - had been hugely successful. Until, that is, she lost her Red Hook kitchen – equipment, supplies, inventory, everything – to the storm.

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What I wasn’t expecting from the evening was (a) an introduction to one of the coolest dining spaces in the city and (b) a Mexican meal as good as any I’ve had in, well, Mexico itself.

Fany’s Ode to Oaxaca – she was raised in Mexico, where she had a beloved nanny from Oaxaca – was staged at City Grit on Prince Street, which describes itself as a culinary salon. It’s the brainchild of Sarah Simmons (among Food & Wine magazine’s “America’s Greatest New Cooks”). Sometimes she mounts dinners there; other times she turns the salon over to guest chefs – often from out of town, and often young and high-profile – which is why the NY Times calls City Grit a sort of Off Broadway, “scrappier” Beard House.  City Grit operates evenings in the back room of what by day is WRK Design, a funky, hipsterish furniture store. Just about everything you see in the photos that follow is for sale.

The Menu

The Ode to Oaxaca Menu

 

The Crowd

The City Grits Crowd

Fany Gerson (left) & Sarah Simmons

Fany Gerson of La Newyorkina (left) & Sarah Simmons of City Grit

Orange-Mezcal Marinated Shrimp with Black Bean Sauce

Orange-Mezcal Marinated Shrimp with Black Bean Sauce, Fany Gerson’s Ode to Oaxaca @ City Grit

The dinner opened with antijitos – street food – that included a corn “boat” topped with sautéed crickets. Several guests had carted ingredients up from Oaxaca, among them the crickets, Oaxacan cheese, and pinole (toasted corn flour).

Speaking
of Eating Bugs…

Compared to most North Americans, my personal history of consuming insects (on purpose, as an adult) is fairly extensive. On the first occasion no less a personage than chef Bill Yosses, now at the White House, convinced me to try an oatmeal-toasted mealy worm. Then my buddy Ruth Alegria got me hooked on dried crickets, called chapulines (in their crushed form) sprinkled over guacamole and in quesadillas.

A basket of Chapulines (Roasted Cricket) in a ...

A basket of Chapulines (Roasted Cricket) in a market in Tepoztlan, Mexico, December 2006 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The mealy worm was just OK (notice the singular “worm”). The flavor was actually good, but its squishy interior put me off. Chapulines, though, are delicious without qualification. Like potato chips they are crunchy, salty, and have a satisfying umami quality.

With the impending invasion of countless hordes of 17-year cicadas about to hit the East Coast, some sources recommend eating them.  They are supposedly super-high in protein and have a nutty taste. Recipes and more at cicadainvasion.blogspot.com.

So, would you eat insects? Before you say no, check out this report from fastcoexist.com. I think these grad students may be onto something.

ento bento

Professor Scott Anderson? Plus,Tapas at Tertulia

I got to sit in recently as Chef Scott Anderson of Elements delivered a command performance lecture-demo to Ph.D. candidates in the materials science program of Princeton University. Here’s my report, in the May issue of New Jersey Monthly, on that Ivy League school’s first foray into the world of food science.

NJ Monthly cover may13

Did I mention that the demo concluded with a four-course lunch that deliciously explicated such concepts as (ahem) pyrolysis vs. the Maillard reaction? Dessert was this playful take on chicken-and-waffles.

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The chicken comes in the form of chicken skin “crumble” (evaporated chicken skin, pulverized into a powder). It’s sprinkled over honey-maple waffles, which rest on a bed of sweet, pudding-like white hominy. Pecans and butternut squash ice cream finish the dish.

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For someone who prides herself on covering the Jersey food scene, I have been dining across the Hudson (and even the Potomac) a lot in recent weeks – and dining darned well. Here’s the first of several reports.

Tertulia

Open-fire rotisserie, from www.tertulianyc.com

Open-fire rotisserie, from http://www.tertulianyc.com

It took me way, way too long to make my first foray to this Spanish tapas place in the West Village that, within weeks of its 2011 opening, became a finalist for the James Beard Award as best new restaurant in the country. Here chef/owner Seamus Mullen (whose last gig was Boqueria and who has been a judge on “Chopped“) continues his love affair with Spain, which extends to the hard ciders of Asturias. At least two are available daily, poured from this good-looking tap:

Actually, all of Tertulia is good-looking, from the bar at the front of its two long, narrow rooms to this – the semi-exposed kitchen in the rear:

The view from my table

The view from my table

Mullen’s fare manages to be both authentic and purely his own at the same time. My advice: order anything with jamon Iberico. Like this lunchtime tapa ($12) of two oversize crostini plied with smashed potatoes and slightly crushed shirred egg, then topped with folds of this incomparable ham:

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If, like me, you like anchovies, you’ll love the Tosta Matrimonio ($9), which weds meaty, salty black anchovies and tart, supple white ones (boquerones). They recline on a thin slice of sheep’s milk cheese over crisp crostini made of flax and quinoa, chastely separated by succulent slow-roasted tomato.

Anchovies cropped

One dish with jamon was not enough, so this grilled sandwich with Serrano ham, Mahon cheese, and quince paste was mandatory ($9):

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My companion & I also shared a generous salad of preserved tuna, farro, Castelvetrano olives, cucumber, frisee, and tomato ($14). While it had good flavors – especially the premium quality tuna – the texture was a bit gummy.

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At that point we were too stuffed to even consider dessert, a situation that conveniently provides an excuse to return to this warm, handsome spot. On my list for next time: classic Spanish egg-and-potato tortilla, fried Shishito peppers, and grilled octopus with beans, kale, and Marcona almonds. And definitely more jamon Iberico.

Tertulia on Urbanspoon

Frank Bruni et al @ Princeton; Delish Dandelions; Menu Malfunctions; Maricel Does It Again

Bruni Speaks!

A few weeks ago Frank Bruni and other notable food memoirists – including chefs Gabrielle Hamilton and Anita Lo – spoke to a standing-room-only crowd at Princeton University. The topic was “Food, Writing, Intimacy” and each of the speakers, who also included chef Christopher Albrecht of Eno Terra and professor Leonard Barkan of Princeton, was given 10 minutes to talk about, well, anything they liked, followed by a short q & a.

Food Memoir Talk

Among the interesting information to emerge: Bruni will be teaching a course in food writing at the university next year and Hamilton’s memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter, is being made into a movie starring Gwyneth Paltrow. Here are some of my favorite moments:

Professor Barkan (author of Satyr Square): “I did not grow up in a culinary household, but my first girlfriend did. Eventually, I grew more interested in food than I did in her.”

Frank Bruni (Born Round) told how during his time as NY Times restaurant critic he would make reservations under a different pseudonym each week, often forgetting to come up with one until he was on the phone. Among the names he used, as he glanced around his office: Mr. Strunk, Mr. White, Mr. Fodor, Mr. Frommer.

Anita Lo (chef/owner of Annisa in New York and author of Cooking without Borders) started off saying, “I want to talk about identity and food.” Her father, she said, had emigrated from China, her mother from Malaysia. Her father died when she was three, so she was raised mostly by her mom and stepfather, who was of German extraction, in the suburbs of Detroit. Because her longtime nanny was Hungarian, chicken paprikash is now one of her comfort foods. “So,” she concluded, “I’m pretty much a WASP.”

Gabrielle Hamilton (chef/owner of Prune in New York and award-winning author) admitted at the start, “I would rather be boiled in oil than talk. I look forward to the q & a! My memoir, like my cooking, is reluctant and inadvertent. I wanted to be a writer, but a memoir is much too personal.”

To view the entire session on video, click here. (Be sure to catch Bruni, who is quite the raconteur, telling about his encounter with the soap dispenser at Nobu 57.)

Dining on Dandelions

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I sing the praises of this spring treasure in my latest In the Kitchen column for the Princeton Packet, including my recipe for the above dish and one for dandelion risotto from Anna Scozzari of Enzo’s La Piccola Cucina in Lawrenceville.

Lost in Translation, Menu Edition

My daughter Alice recently was awarded an all-expense-paid stay at the exquisite Live Aqua Cancun Resort in Mexico, courtesy of the extraordinary company she works for. In addition to raving about the oceanfront beach, 9 pools, daily foot massage in her private cabana, and other decadent offerings, she singled out a fantastic meal at MB. It’s the inhouse restaurant of Michelle Bernstein, the James Beard Award-winning chef whose flagship is Michy’s in Miami.  The food easily surpassed some rather…um…unfortunate menu descriptions. Goat cheese marbles, anyone?

Restaurant MB menu


Maricel Presilla Does It Again

Congratulation are in order yet again for Hoboken restaurateur Maricel Presilla. Her book, Gran Cocina Latina, just won the 2013 IACP award as Best General Cookbook.

Maricel Presilla of Cucharamama, Zafra, & Ultramarinos

Maricel Presilla of Cucharamama, Zafra, & Ultramarinos

Stay tuned to see how she and her book fare when the James Beard book awards are announced on May 6th. For the complete list of IACP winners, click here.

Food Bloggers Against Hunger

Today, along with more than 200 other food bloggers, I am devoting my post to the issue of food hunger in the USA. I do this not just because as a restaurant reviewer I am literally paid to eat, but for a reason that up until now I have shared with almost no one.

English: Saltine Crackers by Nabisco.

English: Saltine Crackers by Nabisco. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

As a child, my parents struggled to put food on the table for me and my six siblings. A typical breakfast when I was five consisted of Saltine crackers smeared, barely, with butter, and coffee cut with evaporated milk because fresh milk was too costly. My siblings and I still joke about the ketchup sandwiches we had for lunch. We ate pasta at minimum three nights a week, often four, and often with only olive oil and garlic. The recipe at the end of this post pays homage to this.

Hunger in the USA

The statistics are staggering:
- 1 in 4 children don’t know where their next meal will come from
- 50 million American kids will go hungry tonight
- Food stamp recipients are allowed $4 a day. (What did you pay for your coffee on the way to work this morning?) And Congress is looking to cut back on food assistance programs!

To get some idea of the seriousness of the situation, check out this trailer for the film documentary ‘A Place at the Table.’ (It’s short and includes music by Mumford & Sons.) The film features Tom Colicchio, among other celebrities. If Tom thinks this is an important issue, don’t you?

Craft - Chef Tom Colicchio

(Photo credit: ZagatBuzz)

A Place at the Table is showing in limited theaters, but you can view it on demand through iTunes and Amazon.

A Call to Action

Share Our Strength

Share Our Strength (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Private sector programs and charities are not enough; policy change is required. Join Share Our Strength’s effort and send a letter to Congress today demanding action. I have.

PAT’S PASTA WITH BEANS

Why this recipe today? Well, my daughters – even the picky eater – happily ate it as children; it’s quick, cheap, easy to make, and utilizes inexpensive pantry staples; it’s delicious and reminds me of my Italian-American heritage.

1 can kidney beans, rinsed & drained
1 can chickpeas, rinsed & drained
1 clove garlic, chopped (or more to taste)
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
Pepper
1 35-ounce can whole Italian plum tomatoes, crushed by hand or chopped, liquid included
1 tablespoon olive oil (or more, enough to cover bottom of pan)
Salt, to taste
1 pound shell pasta, cooked according to directions

In a large skillet or wide-bottom pot saute garlic in olive oil over medium heat until garlic just begins to color, 1 to 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, oregano, and pepper and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer (still bubbling), for 5 minutes, or until tomatoes have lost their metallic taste. Add beans and simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meantime, cook pasta. Drain and add to bean mixture and simmer, tossing gently, for 1 minute.
Serves 4 to 6.

Breaking News: First Peek Inside Mistral in Princeton

Last week Scott Anderson took time out to escort me around Mistral, the smaller, more casual sibling to his acclaimed restaurant elements, that’s set to open later in April. Read my report at NJMonthly.com. Mistral-Logo

NJ’s Best Farmers Markets & Specialty Food Shops; School Garden Contest & Workshop; Free Birthday Cake; Dandelion Dinner; More

The April issue of NJ Monthly is all about Fabulous NJ Food (Yay!).

NJ Monthly cover apr13I was pleased to contribute my picks for the best farmers markets and specialty food shops in the central part of the state.

Click here for the story on the cream of the crop of Garden State farmers markets.

Click here for the story on our most delicious specialty food shops.

Think Your Kid’s School Has the Best Garden in the State?

Then make sure it’s a contender for the NJ School Garden of the Year Award. Top prize is a cool $1500 – that’s a lot of lettuce! Entries are being accepted now through July 1st. The award, in its second year, is presented by Edible Jersey magazine and the NJ Farm to School NetworkClick here for details and entry form.

Riverside School Garden, Princeton

Riverside School Garden, Princeton

If you’re interested in creating or improving a school garden, the Farm to School Network is holding a workshop called Creating Sustainable School Gardens on Wednesday, April 3, from 8 am to 3 pm at Duke Farms in Hillsborough. Cost is $30. Click here for details and to register.

You say it’s your birthday? Well, happy birthday to you – at Za in Pennington

Cute cross-pollination idea from chef/owner Mark Valenza of Za, the quirky little byob on West Delaware Avenue. Just mention that you’re celebrating a birthday when you make a reservation and they’ll provide your table with a free ice cream cake from a shop located in the same shopping center where they are. Here’s the deal, in their own words:

birthday_cake_photo

“We’ll buy your table a delicious Uncle Ed’s Creamery chocolate and vanilla ice cream birthday cake! (serves 4) We’re not allowed to sing Happy Birthday, but we will deliver your free ice cream cake to the table with a birthday candle.”

Dandelion Dinner @ Enzo’s La Piccola Cucina

Wikipedia

Wikipedia

Another central NJ byob – Enzo’s in Lawrenceville (near the Trenton Farmers Market)- is welcoming spring with a 1-day, 5-course dinner devoted to that delightfully bitter green. If like me you grew up in an Italian-American family, you’ve developed a love of all things bitter, including the vitamin-rich dandelion. Here’s the menu that Anna Scozzari, the proprietor of this tiny, old-school establishment, has planned:

Batter-dipped Dandelion
Dandelion Salad
Dandelion & Cheese Manicotti
Balsamic & Fig Glazed Cornish Hen with Dandelion Risotto
Surprise Dessert

Sunday, April 7th is the date. Reservations are a must, and there are two seatings, at 1 pm and 6 pm. Cost, $59, includes tax and gratuity. For reservations phone 609-396-9868.

Congratulations to NJ Beard Nominees

I predicted that Maricel Presilla‘s masterful Gran C0cina Latina would show up on the major cookbook awards this year, and that has come to pass. It’s a finalist for two prestigious awards: James Beard and IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals). Gran Cocina Latina

Ditto for the latest output of Melissa Hamilton & Christopher Hersheimer: Canal House Cooks Every Day. (To read more about the duo, click here for my 2010 profile in NJ Monthly.) Happily, the two books are nominated in separate categories in each instance so they can both come away winners.

Speaking of Awards…

…a very kind subscriber has nominated DineWithPat for a Saveur Best Food Blog award! If you feel so inclined, I’d be very grateful for your vote.

Where Rush Holt Dines in DC; Frank Bruni, Gabrielle Hamilton & Others Coming to Princeton; Girl Scouts Cook “Slow” @ Tre Piani

When I read the NY Times story “A Lunchroom Called Capitol Hill,” I couldn’t help but wonder about the dining preferences of my own representative, Rush Holt. (You may have encountered the bumper sticker for him that reads My congressman IS a rocket scientist!)

English: Official photo of Rep Rush Holt

English: Official photo of Rep Rush Holt (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

So I contacted his office for a bit of what passes with me as investigative journalism. Here’s his reply:

“If by favorite you mean where I eat most often, it would be my desk.  Eating out, it would be the Chinese restaurant on Pennsylvania SE.”

Well played, Congressman. Not only does this indicate how hard Holt works on our behalf, but also the restaurant to which he refers is Hunan Dynasty, an inexpensive, standard-issue, neighborhood Chinese joint. His constituency can rest assured that he’s working hard on our behalf, not wasting our tax dollars at effete watering holes, and does not participate in the one-upmanship described in the Times piece.

By the way, that story included a secret that my DC-dwelling daughter passed along to me a while ago: the best cafeteria food on the National Mall is to be had at the National Museum of the American Indian.

Acclaimed Food Memoirists and Chefs to Discuss “Food, Writing, Intimacy” at Princeton University

On Tuesday, March 26 the latest in a series of talks labeled Critical Encounters will feature Frank Bruni of the New York Times (“Born Round“), Gabrielle Hamilton of Prune in NYC (“Blood, Bones, and Butter“), Anita Lo of Annisa in NYC (“Cooking without Borders“), Chris Albrecht of Eno Terra in Kingston, and Professor Leonard Barkan of Princeton (“Satyr Square“).

Cover of

Cover via Amazon

The event, conceived and organized by Professor Anne Cheng of Princeton, is free and open to the public. It takes place at 4:30 pm in McCormick Hall 101 on the university campus.

Girl Scouts Cook Up a ‘Slow’ Meal for Farmers, Friends & Family at Tre Piani Restaurant

I don’t know who was braver, the 6 teenage Scouts who wielded 12-inch chef knives and skirted the huge blue flames of the restaurant’s professional stoves or owner/chef Jim Weaver who invited the girls to cook a meal at his Forrestal Village restaurant. It was all part of an advanced Scouting project, Sow What?, that focuses on sustainability, farming, and nutrition.

The girls shopped for local ingredients at the Slow Food Winter Farmers Market that took place at the restaurant earlier in the day and then, with Chef Jim, devised a menu. Here’s what they cooked up:

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Salad of baby lettuces, Tre Piani’s own fresh mozzarella, local hothouse tomatoes, and croutons made with bread from Bobolink Dairy and Bakehouse, one of the day’s many vendors.

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Penne Bolognese made with local grass-fed beef and sausage, mushrooms from Davidson’s Exotic Mushrooms, and fresh ricotta from Fulper Farms.

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The girls had made ahead of time and brought with them avocado chocolate mousse – a recipe of Food Network chef Giada De Laurentiis.

Shoppers at the annual Winter Slow Food Farmers Market held at Tre Piani restaurant in Forrestal Village last month may have noticed an unusual sight: a group of six teenage girls in t-shirts and jeans bouncing from table to table, debating which meats, cheeses, breads, vegetables, and other comestibles to select – and then gathering up enough to feed a small army. Well, at least the 25 people they were having over for dinner that night. At the restaurant.

The girls – Hannah Barrett, Olivia Killian, Gabrielle Longchamp, Julia McDonald, Olivia Rios, and Emily Schalk – are all members of Girl Scout Troop 80925 in Flemington, and their Tre Piani experience was but one leg in a group journey called Sow What? In Girl Scout lingo, a “journey” is a group of activities and accomplishments for older Scouts that, along with accumulating badges, culminates in a Gold Award – the equivalent of Eagle Scout for boys.

Cathy Schalk, one of the troop leaders and mother to Emily, explained that the Sow What? journey “encompasses sustainable farming, Slow Food, and the nutritional importance of food to our health.” The girls began working on the project last summer: visiting area farms and meeting with agriculture specialists and leaders of the Slow Food movement, including Jim Weaver who founded and heads up the Central New Jersey chapter.

“They contacted me last summer,” recalls Weaver, chef/owner of Tre Piani. “They said they were touring farms, doing the whole Jersey Fresh thing. They came to the restaurant and I did a little tasting and talk with them.” To thank him, the girls decided they would cook a dinner for the chef, in February. “But it occurred to me,” Weaver says, “that we could piggyback on the farmers market held here each February. I thought, why don’t we shop, cook, and sit down and eat together instead.”

That’s how the scouts – five sophomores and one freshman at Hunterdon Central Regional High, several of whom have known each other since second grade – came to be shopping at the Slow Food market and, afterwards, donning aprons and wielding twelve-inch chef’s knives in the restaurant’s kitchen. “The girls shopped pretty much by themselves and decided on the menu,” said Weaver, as he had them busily chopping onions and carrots. When these were sautéing, along with garlic, over huge blue flames in massive sauté pans, he sprinkled in dried chili flakes, telling the girls, “A little pepperoncini adds another element/dimension. It helps excite your palate a little bit.”

As the scouts worked, their adult troop leaders talked about the effect the Sow What? journey has had on the girls and their families. Cathy Shalk said, “At home, I now think twice when I go to serve an ‘emergency’ dinner on paper plates.” Michele Levasseur, Gabrielle’s mother, laughed and added, “After they read all the nutrition info about fast food, like McDonald’s, they’re now telling me what to eat!” But, she added, “because of this project, my daughter and I regularly ride bikes through the community. We see local farms and we stop and talk to the farmers.”

Some of these farmers were among the 25 friends and family members the troop had invited to share their Tre Piani dinner, among them a soils expert from Rutgers University and a Flemington school nurse who had founded a school garden. After everyone had tasted the pasta, Jim Weaver proclaimed, “This dish just may have to go on the menu here at Tre Piani. We’ll call it ‘Pasta 80925.’ The only thing is, customers will expect Girl Scout cookies afterwards!”

Later, many of the girls agreed that cooking had been their favorite part of the day. Gabrielle Longchamp said of the overall experience, “It went more smoothly in the kitchen than I had anticipated.” Olivia Rios admitted that she was “scared to death” of the cooking, but managed to enjoyed it. “But I also liked choosing the ingredients, too,” she added.

The recipe below includes in parentheses the vendors at the Slow Food Farmers Market who provided ingredients for the Girl Scout’s feast.

 TROUP 80925 BOLOGNESE SAUCE
(developed with Jim Weaver, Tre Piani)

2 pounds fresh wild mushroom mix (such as Davidson’s or Shibumi Farms)
4 tablespoons olive oil, separated
2 onions, peeled and chopped
5 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon chili pepper flakes
1 package (about 1 pound) pork sausage (such as Beech Tree Farm), removed from casing, if any
2 pounds ground beef (such as WoodsEdge Wool Farm)
2 cans (28 ounces each) plum tomatoes, drained and chopped
2 cups beef stock, or 1 cup stock and 1 cup red wine
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 pint fresh ricotta (such as Fulper Family Farms)
2 pounds dried pasta, such as penne

1. Clean the mushrooms by wiping with a damp paper towel. (Do not rinse: mushrooms soak up water like a sponge.) Chop mushrooms. Saute over high heat in small batches with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and a little salt. The liquid released from the mushrooms should have enough room in the pan to evaporate and let the mushrooms develop a golden-brown color. Set aside.

2. Heat the remaining oil over medium heat. Add the onion and some salt, and saute for about 5 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Then add carrots, garlic, chili flakes, and a little salt. Cook for another 5 minutes.

3. Add the sausage and ground beef. Cook, breaking down the lumps with a fork, until the meat is cooked through. Add tomatoes, olive oil, and stock. Add salt and pepper to taste (not too much; the sauce will reduce and intensify). Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes or, better yet, an hour.
4. Add sauteed mushrooms and stir until heated through. Serve or refrigerate. The sauce tastes even better the next day. If you make it ahead of time reheat over low heat while the pasta is cooking. Just before serving take the sauce off the heat and mix in the ricotta.
5. When ready to serve, cook the pasta according to package instructions then mix with the Bolognese sauce.
Serves 8 to 12.

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